New in the interactive constructions tailored jacket, jacket and waistcoat

In the GRAFIS measurement system SIZES_1 , an additional option nape or neck to waist over bust appears in the category length. If the first variant is active, the position of the neck hole tip at the front and the chest auxiliary line are constructed with the body measurements nape to waist over bust and nape to bust'. With the second variant, the construction is based on the body measurements neck to waist over bust and bust length.

In the category shoulder , the new option shoulder with... appears with three options over shoulder length, shoulder angle, shoulder slope adjustment in mm. If the first variant is active, the shoulder slope is constructed with the length over shoulder measurement. If the second variant is active, the body measurement shoulder angle is used. With the third variant, the shoulder slope is determined interactively in millimetres.

If the aid point of the armhole curve is within a radius of 10 mm of the green point, a quarter arc appears with this point as the echo. This arc is formed with the perpendicular distance of the armhole low point to the aid line as the radius. The green radius point has a magnetic effect on the aid. The circular arc becomes visible again when the shape point of the armhole curve is activated at the bottom.

In the drag areas armhole or side seam in the waistcoat block there is the option to interactively set the low point position of the armhole relative to the armhole width using a slider. To the left and right of the slider, the percentage values appear as an echo according to the X value setting. If these deviate from the measured percentage values at the bottom of the armhole width, they are shown in grey. It is now possible to change the position by shifting the armhole low point by millimetres. If both percentages at the top and bottom match again, the values at the top are displayed in green.

In all measurement systems - except the GRAFIS measurement system SIZES_1 - there is a slider in ease horizontal + vertical in the upper area of the armhole in the middle. In these measurement systems, the length over shoulder is not available as a body measurement and is calculated using a formula. The slider enables an interactive adjustment of the calculated dimension for the base size and the different figure types.

The new option shoulder dart with or without armhole pinching appears in the category shoulder. By selecting the variants, you determine which pivot point is used when opening the shoulder dart. In the case with armhole pinching, this is the dart end point of the shoulder dart; in the case without armhole pinching, it is the armhole protrusion point. In both cases, the pivot point position can be influenced interactively.

In the normal or corpulent type option, an additional variant adjust normal and corpulent type via slider appears. When this variant is activated, a slider becomes visible in the drag area ease horizontal + vertical, with which the two variants can be selected interactively and dependent on the break size.

If the option dart in armhole is preset, there are three additional design points in the drag areas front dart + welt pocket. The first point changes the side dart drop in millimetres. When the dart is opened, the armhole, side seam and hem lines are moved down by the set amount and remain unchanged. Points two and three are the shaping points of the curves above the side dart. Points two and three are the shaping points of the curves above the side dart.

As of GRAFIS 23, there is a new logic for constructing the 'length over shoulder for the jacket as well. This new logic is always active after calling block from library. After loading an old shape with an 'length over shoulder' setting, an update button appears, see left image. The new design logic is only activated after the button is pressed, see right-hand image. However, this can lead to changes in shape. It is therefore advisable to set a comparison part beforehand, then press the button and interactively recreate the old shape.

The new option waist dart length appears in the category waist. Selecting the variants determines from which auxiliary line the top dart length is taken. Activate the first variant to select the waist line and the second to select the bust line. The second variant is set automatically as soon as the front length as body measurement option is activated.

In the drag area overlap + buttons, there is a slider that is only visible for variant single-breasted. The slider controls the baseline on which the button points are constructed. If the slider is set to value '0', the four to a maximum of eight points are positioned on the centre of the front. If the slider is set to value '1', the points are plotted on a parallel line to the front edge. The parallel distance corresponds to the overlap width. Depending on the controller setting, the alternative variant is displayed as a preview.

In the drag area styling, there is a slider under the front and back as soon as a pinch amount is set in the armhole. The slider controls whether the centre line of the front or back waist dart is transformed or not. If the slider is set to value '0', the centre remains in place. If the slider is set to value '1', the centre is also moved during pinching the armhole. An arrow indicates the direction in which the centre line will move when the slider is operated.